The reason it happens so often
Thousands of homes built here between the 1950s and the late 1980s have soft copper water lines running inside or under the concrete slab. Where that copper touches concrete, rebar or damp soil, it corrodes from the outside in.
Hard local water scales the inside of the same pipe, so the wall thins from both directions. Add the seasonal soil movement that comes with dry summers and heavy winter rain and a pinhole eventually opens.
Signs you actually have one
A warm or hot patch on a tile or vinyl floor, usually in a hallway. Hot water lines leak first because heat accelerates corrosion.
The sound of running water when every fixture is off.
Water pressure that has quietly dropped over months.
Baseboards, carpet edges or cabinet kick plates that stay damp, or a musty smell in one room.
The clearest test: shut every fixture and appliance off, then watch the small dial on the water meter. If it moves at all, water is going somewhere.
How the leak gets found
Line pressure is isolated section by section to confirm which line is losing water. Then acoustic listening equipment and a thermal scan narrow the position down to a small area, often within a foot.
That accuracy is the whole point. A located leak means one small opening in the concrete instead of exploratory demolition across a room.
Repair versus repipe
One leak in an otherwise healthy system is a spot repair: open the slab, replace the damaged section, patch the concrete.
Two or more leaks in a couple of years means the copper is at the end of its life everywhere, and rerouting the lines overhead through the attic and walls with PEX or new copper costs less over time than repeated slab openings.
Need a hand with this? See our leak detection & slab leaks page, or call 626-386-9105.